Jungle, City, and Purgitory

Next to the river in La Merced

Well what an interesting week it has been. There´s a lot going on at the house right now so I´m a bit distracted – but I´ll get to that later – so please forgive me if I repeat myself or am a little more scatterbrained than usual. Do you think I´ll start every entry with an apology? It´s a habit I´ll have to break.

To start with, I´ve been asked if there is a way to be notified when we have a new post or if I will be emailing everyone when we post something new – in short, no and no. I´m sorry I´ve done a little reading and it looks like there´s no good way for the blogspot to send out emails. But perhaps you can somehow sign up as a follower if you have a gmail account – though please don´t ask me how to do this, I´m not tech savvy enough. We have to option to have an email sent to something like 10 accounts when we post something new and right now that´s reserved for the mothers and the like (I hope it´s working). As to sending out a mass email, I don´t delude myself into thinking that everyone I originally invited has the time, inclination, or interest in reading what we are doing so I just don´t want to be that annoying. Sorry <- there it is again! So I'll just try to do at least a little something weekly depending on where we are and we'll see how that goes.

So I wrote everything so quickly last time that I missed a lot of details of course. But walking around the city so much as we have lately made me think more about a couple. The connection here to give you a preface is garbage - or pollution equally as well. This city is covered in garbage. I still have really no concept of how the waste disposal system works here but I know very well that there is no recycling and that the people throw out garbage here wherever or however they may. This unfortunately goes for the area surrounding the city too - including Huaytapallana (wondering if I'm spelling it the same this time), the mountain we hiked last week though it feels like years ago. The whole trail, despite being over 18k, was covered in litter as well. We were really upset by it. Walter (who left last Thursday) started putting trash in his backpack and we were very glad to see that our guide, Pancho, ended up carrying a small bag filled with random litter and the bottles that the other people in our party attempted to leave behind on the ground. It was very sad. Pancho also told us that just in the time he has been a guide on the mountain (since '98), he has seen the glacier substantially recede. Granted it looked like a lot now but if it's already decreased so much it will likely be gone in another decade or two. It makes us really want to visit Mount Kilimanjaro sooner than later. I know early in our stay here, Chris and I were walking through town - actually on the railroad track on the central road that is unused but covered in litter - and talking about the trash and pollution. Chris made the sad point that while yes we are trying to do things better in our own countries, third world countries like Peru have to deal with issues of sanitation and potable water long before they can imagine decreasing emissions or starting large scale recycling programs. And then there's China. Same problem on a much, much larger scale. That's about all I can say there. There's your sobering thought for the evening.
 
So I mentioned previously I believe that we'd been planning on going to the jungle. Our host family informed us rather last minute that holidays and school vacations were starting this week and so prices would go up substantially (which they did, just the bus ticket is now 8-10x more expensive this week). And so we decided very last minute to go to the jungle, La Merced. There were six of us, including Alie (misspelled previously), Ulla, and the new couple from Montreal, Jessica and Eric. We got there Friday early afternoon after a long bus ride and had to find a place to stay and organize a tour. After which, we went for a walk that led us to a path along a river which Chris pointed out is not actually the Amazon but is one of the tributaries which will become the Amazon. It was beautiful and again I'll try to post pictures later when I figure out how to shrink my pictures so it doesn't take twenty minutes each time. Chris was eager to get near the water but Alie asked a little girl passing by who told us it was dangerous. And if even a little girl tells you it's dangerous, it's probably worth listening. We had a start when a small herd of cattle pushed us into the brush, and we even managed to meet a few middle aged Peruvian women power-walking next to the river - guess it is universal. We had a very nice room at a hostal with a TV - we watched the last few minutes of Dee Dog Wheesperer in Spanish and then a little bit of the Matrix in English. I think the Matrix ironically made us both feel a little homesick.
 
The next day we went on a guided tour of the jungle. Or at least that was what it was supposed to be. Chris and I were both expecting and hoping for just a long hike in gorgeous, unadulterated jungle. But instead we rode on a little bus a lot to make multiple mostly meaningless stops - and make me sick to my stomach. One of the girls described it as being a tour meant for little old Japanese women with red hats. Sounds fairly appropriate. We went to a more than one hundred year old bridge and crossed over to the bottom of the mountains we'd been looking at before. The hillside was covered with roots that were ridiculously strong and our guide, Jonah, told us we could climb and hang off of. Of course Chris was in heaven, even if only for a few minutes.

Jessica, Eric, Ulla, Alie, me, and Chris swinging on the roots

 
Then we went to a luxury type resort with a great view of where two rivers converged and had some cheap fresh (right in front of us) squeezed orange juice from their crops. I think after that was went we to the native village. Our whole group had asked originally if we could bypass this part as we all felt it was degrading and intrusive for us to be there but because we were with a larger group we had to go. So many of us arrived at once and overwhelmed this small village, which was obviously set up specifically for tourists. We asked to refrain from dressing up in native garb (which also seemed degrading to their culture) but the women came and started to surround us and it would have been much more rude to say no. So we had long gowns on with headbands for the women and a much too small straw hat for Chris' enormous head with our faces painted - though they couldn't properly paint Chris' because of his rather scraggly (is that a word?) beard. They sat us all down for a talk (in Spanish and Quechua) and demonstration of the native music. It was hear that we saw that fear of public speaking is universal and nervousness is most easily heard in body language even if the tongue stays steady. We felt so terrible for him but he did a very good job of holding it together. And at the end the native Peruvians on vacation in the group were very respectful and had many interesting questions about their culture and customs. Then, the people of the village danced for us and then included us in a sort of dance. Part of our group refrained but when a young boy grabbed my hand, I didn't want to hurt his feelings by saying no, so off I went. I think Chris got a couple of goofy pictures but it was fun and it was the only time the kids in the village actually smiled. Afterward, we bought something each from the artesan stalls they had set up to help support the community - though I promptly lost my bracelet the same day.
 
After we drove to the site in the jungle with two waterfalls - Vela de la Novia and Bayoz. This made the entire day worthwhile. The first waterfall they wanted us to stay at a distance because the path down was too steep and slick. But hell no, we came all that way and we wanted closer and after Chris started down, the entire group followed. It was amazing to stand there and just let the water hit you in the face as it fell down the cliff face. It looked as though it was part water and part milk running down and it just felt amazing. Also, there were many beautiful butterflies the whole time but this was the first and only time there were blue butterflies. They were mesmerizing. They weaved in and out almost touching the waterfall. One even swooped down at me. But none every landed for more than a moment and as hard as I tried, I couldn't get a picture.
 
Between the first and second waterfall there is a small site for food and the like. They also had there two small puma (or otherwise wild cat variant) kittens and a monkey that was kept on a leash and tied to the chair. It was really sad. We hope very much that the monkey will escape someday.
 
The last waterfall was what made the day. Chris of course took the opportunity to scramble/climb up some rocks to get there. It wasn't much but again it was something. We had our bathing suits on and our guide watched our things and off we went. We went swimming in the pool and came right underneath the waterfall. It was wonderful - and quite cold. The Canadian couple took some pictures with their waterproof camera and hopefully we will get to share those at some point. It was incredibly calming and relaxing. We just took our time to enjoy the view, the water, and the moment of peace.
 

After that they took us to a "traditional" restaurant. We had been told the meal was included with our tour but it was not and having been taken to a relatively expensive restaurant without the option to go elsewhere, we were pissed. But having just been swimming, we were also hungry. Chris stuck by his guns but I was starving so I had to give in and eat something. Oh well. Afterward we went on a quick canoe ride in one of the rivers and embarrassed a couple young, local guys bathing in their tighty whities. It was nice enough but I still didn't know what the point of it was. Last we were supposed to go to a coffee plantation. We didn't feel that we needed to but since it was included and Chris is a coffee addict we were excited enough. Unfortunately, it was the Disneyland of coffee plantations. It was just a big warehouse room set up for tasting and buying and very little seeing what actually goes on at a plantation. By that point we were ready to go home. We did at least get a last minute laugh when a young boy (but not that young) decided to take a picture of his eye from two inches away. Sometimes I don't know what kids are thinking.
 
So all in all it was all right but in hindsight, we should have just hired a taxi to take us out so we could hike and spend more time in the jungle. And La Merced was hot and expensive. But it was the first time in Peru Chris has been able to find his precious plantain chips.
 
The bus ride home was horrendous. We left around 9:45pm (scheduled for 9pm - that's Peruvian time) going uphill to get back into the mountains and it took more than six hours as opposed to the four coming down. The only problem was Alie and I had a strange incident with the guy sitting in front of her who turned around and started asking us questions in English. He'd already been acting rather strange and then started insistently asking the name of our program. I told him absolutely no we weren't going to tell a stranger that. But it was too late, he'd already creeped us both out and we stayed awake most of the night keeping an eye on him. Of course nothing ever happened and he was probably just nervous talking to us in English but he still gave me the willies.
 
Sunday we rested and went to the big Sunday artesans market. It's very, very long and a lot more common clothes and things for the locals than arts and crafts for tourists. But it was great to get out and walk and it meant we got to stop at that nice restaurant again for a salad. God I love salad. That night we all collaborated and made ourselves a big vat of spagghetti with veggies and chicken meatballs.
 
Monday was my last day at the clinic. It was actually a very good last day working with a different doctor who was swamped and of course complaining the whole time that she was alone. It was a nice little experience but I've decided I need a little more sleep, relaxation, and time to study medical Spanish on my own instead of standing there trying desperately to understand when they are talking either incredibly fast or much too quiet for me to hear.
 
Today, we decided to try a little adventure of our own. No more tours or guides. Not even directions unfortunately. A major form of art specific to the valley is gourd carving. I can't fully describe it without a picture but it is ornate, amazingly intricate, and incredibly time-consuming. There is a town about a half an hour outside the city that is known as being a center for the artesans responsible for these amazing creations. So this morning, Alie, Ulla, Chris, and I set off to find it. The only idea we had was an intersection, unfortunately a far one at that. When we got there we started asking around and were spotted (as we are all normally very easily spotted anyway) by a very interesting man who understood English quite well. He walked with us and tried to show us where to take the bus, talking to Chris in English and correcting Chris' Spanish the whole time. He was talking about how much safer with fewer pickpockets Huancayo is than Cuzco (the town you have to go through before going to Macchu Picchu) but guiding us around crowds and not letting us stop because of fearing pickpockets. He was terribly scatterbrained and I watched very skeptically as he guided us around the same block three times. He absolutely meant well but in the end had us in the completely wrong spot because all the bus routes had changed for the holiday festivals tomorrow (more on that later). We were completely lost and he was unintentionally amusing us by bad-mouthing Peruvian drivers while showing us how in the US people would give drivers the middle finger (they don't do that here). Eventually, we figured out where to go and left him laughing and all smiles. We found a distant bus stop and realized the bus goes right by the Ladrillera where we go everyday for the kids' after-school program. Oh well.
 
The bus ride was beautiful and we plan to go back on that route again just to get off and explore the countryside a bit. When we got there, we immediately found a shop and walked it. It was like another world. there were several women sitting in this little courtyard carving small gourds into Calaveras (little skulls). There are all family and the matriarch immediately welcomed us in, invited us to take pictures, and showed us how they carved with both tools and flame. The flame was the most interesting. They used little sticks that were just smoldering, like embers, to touch the surface of the gourd and she would blow on it to increase the flame and thus create a better burn and darker color. We also saw were they keep all the gourds waiting to be used and it was enormous! Just so many. And of course, we bought many from them each. Not terribly expensive and of course we wanted to support the family but some are a little big and we may have to send a package home early. I just wish we had more room to buy more gifts for friends and family since we are going to see so many amazing crafts. In the end, we left the idyllic looking scene with the women still working and the smell of the communal lunch permeating the air from the kitchen behind them. It just seemed so perfect to stay that way and just work in intricate details, be with family, and just be. Sometimes what I wouldn't give.

The matron of the Medina family demonstrating gourd carving for us

 
We just barely caught the bus back as someone saw us and signaled for them to stop. So we ran for it. It was uphill but not too far. Even so, at altitude, it's a wonderful work out. If nothing else, I will remember Huancayo for it's brotherhood and just the general goodness of the people here. So many times we are stopped on the street by someone who just wanted to talk to you and ask where you are from. Chris points out in other more touristy parts of Peru they are just interested in doing business with you and taking your money and could care less about talking to you, but here it is all about the interest in talking to you, who you are, where you are from, and why you are here. On more than one occasion, we've lost (only momentarily for the worrying mothers out there) part of a group and I'll stand there looking around obviously confused or lost and someone will immediately point me in the right direction. I love that we're in a place where people always know who I'm looking for since we all stand out, but also that these strangers take the time to point me in the right direction. It's very safe here. In fact, Ulla was walking early today and told me a stranger stopped her to tell her that her backpack was unzipped. Things like that are just common here and I feel very good knowing that if someone went wrong and I had to scream help, I know someone will come. It just makes me all the more sad that we're leaving fairly soon.
 
So later today, after the fun with gourds, we did art with the kids. Tomorrow is Fiestas Patrias, the Peruvian independence day, and so we did face painting with the Peruvian flag (very straight forward - red stripe, white stripe, red stripe) and they made their own flags with the Peruvian flag on one side and a flag representing themselves on the other. They had a great time. They were even a little more controlled than usually. After, we played soccer for a while. I'm one of the few and pretty much the only girl teacher that really gets up and plays with them so I think a lot of the little boys respect me more for that - even if I'm not terribly good. The Canadian couple brought them a new soccer ball with a bunch of world flags on it - but Peru wasn't on it so the kids painted it on. We won't be going for the next two days because of the holidays.
 

Ulla face painting with some helpers

Finally as to the stress here, I should just say that I love Huancayo, I love the people here, I love working with the kids, and I really enjoy the people we're volunteering with. However, we've had problems with the program coordinators (the people in whose home we live in) and they've gone a little overboard tonight and are threatening to kick certain people out of the house for some truthes they didn't want to hear. It's unfortunate but hopefully it will work itself out. We had had group plans for the holidays for the next couple days but now I think we'll be playing it by ear to see what happens in case we just need to leave. This is still supposed to be something of a vacation but I feel like I'm having to walk on eggshells constantly around the house. It's not a pleasant situation. Let's hope it improves.
 
So as to leaving in generally, it looks like next we are headed to Bolivia since things didn't work out here. We knew of a classmate who had some clinical plans there and has been very gracious in inviting us to come out and even hopefully help in some of his research. More on that as we figure out the details. Needless to say we are very happy and very grateful to have somewhere to go after leaving here.
 
So just to quickly address a few things at home since there's been a lot going on. We're sorry to be missing the shore with Chris' family and hope everyone is having a great time. I promise he's been meaning to call but isn't feeling terribly well. Congratulations to my grandmother for her big move in with my aunt and uncle. I hope you enjoy your new shower. My little brother is leaving for graduate school on Monday. He's one of the most mature and well-rounded young men I know. I'm incredibly proud of you - I just wish it didn't have to be Texas. Sorry we won't be there to help with the move.
 
Okay, so that turned out to be really, really long too but it's actually kind of therapeutic. I'm sure I'm missing most of the important and philosophically or morally relevant elements as I go though. I'm sure Chris will be good enough to fill it all in at some point later, much later. Hope you were able to bear with me.
 
Wishing you happiness, love, and many salads,
Sara and Chris
 
P.S. As to the lack of veg, for those not in the know, it's grown or handled in such a way that it is contaminated with nasty viruses and bacteria that make your guts do unhappy things. So an unsafe or poorly washed salad is a sure fire way to staying in the bathroom all day, possibly for a few days. Chris has been sick a couple times now - including right now - and I've been pretty free of problems. I'm sure he'll love that I shared that.